Yearning for a challenge, two top chefs plan restaurant in Cuba
BY NOE TORRES
MEXICO CITY Thu Nov 13, 2014 2:39pm EST
(Reuters) - They have already earned a place in the firmament of the
world's best chefs. Now Basque chef Andoni Luis Aduriz and Mexico's
Enrique Olvera have set their sights on one of the world's toughest
markets: communist-run Cuba.
The island has seen a restaurant boom in recent years, fed by
market-style reforms enacted under President Raul Castro, though
ingredients can be scarce.
The pair are eager to take on the challenge.
Aduriz's restaurant Mugaritz, in Spain's northern Basque region, was
named the sixth best restaurant in the world this year by Restaurant
Magazine, while Olvera's Pujol in Mexico City ranked at No. 20.
"We're at a stage where we don't just want to cook good, creative,
avant-garde food," Aduriz told Reuters by telephone as he prepared
dinner with Olvera at Pujol on Wednesday. "Why not do a project that
aspires to be on a hypothetical list of the most fun restaurants in the
Since 2011, restaurateurs in Cuba, who previously were limited to
12-seat establishments in their homes, can seat up to 50 people in
While state restaurants and joint ventures with the state can import
luxury items, Cuba's private restaurants, known as paladares, often
struggle to find ingredients from supermarkets and other retailers.
In keeping with Cuba's communist ideals, Aduriz and Olvera aim to create
a restaurant that levels the social playing field.
"Gastronomy is not a privilege of people with money, but rather of
intelligent people. Why not dream of a restaurant in which we manage to
mix all social classes of people and no one asks who anyone else is?"
It is not clear how economically viable the planned restaurant would be.
The pair are still at the early stages, with no planned start-up date.
Havana's dining choices now include inventive fusion spots, ethnic
choices offering Spanish, Italian or Russian food, and white-tablecloth
restaurants serving haute cuisine.
They serve tourists, foreigners including diplomats, and a growing
number of Cubans who have access to hard currency from their jobs, small
businesses or relatives working abroad.
"We are going through the beginnings of something that didn't exist a
short time ago," said Pilar Fernandez, who opened her second restaurant,
Casa Pilar, in Havana a month ago.
"This is going to create a new school in the world of Cuban gastronomy.
With time, all these young people learning new skills will end up being
(Additional reporting by Daniel Trotta in Havana; Writing by Simon
Gardner; Editing by Leslie Adler)
Source: Yearning for a challenge, two top chefs plan restaurant in Cuba
| Reuters -